Making the Pattern and Muslin

I started this at the end of July by making a new pattern to fit Cathy.  I had the original pattern and a paper pattern I'd made for myself so had an idea what modifications were needed.

For the first pass I traced printed pattern with adjustments for size.  

Next cut out using muslin.  Note that the pattern pieces here do not include a seam allowance, so the seam allowance is added to the muslin when cutting..  Transfer all the pattern markings to the muslin

Sew the muslin using basting stitch.  Stitch around the collar and hems.  Just mark things like buttonholes and pockets.  This pass is to fine-tune the fit for the final pattern.  Note any adjustments needed.  Adjustments can be drawn directly on the muslin using colored markers.  

The fit is pretty good, a little tight in the underarm, and the sleeves need to be a tiny bit longer.

Now take apart the muslin.  I use tracing paper to make the final pattern.  Trace the marked-up muslin, using the original printed pattern as a reference to make sure all the pattern notches and markings are correctly transferred to the new pattern.  It's helpful to use different ink colors for the different markings.

This may seem like a lot of work, but by doing this I can confidently cut into the more expensive fabric, and sew without having to constantly try on for fit.

Now the pattern is laid out for cutting.